7th January, 2019 – Mysore

Before we get under way, I should point out that Mysore is now Mysuru, but everyone still seems to call it Mysore. Just in case there are any pedants out there (as if). It is a centre for sandalwood-carving and silk and incense production – though we managed to resist most of what was on offer, but more about that later. My guidebook describes it as ‘charming, old-fashioned and undaunting’ and I would very much agree. It feels manageable, so much so, Val and I explored a bit on our own on foot. More in due course.

A good breakfast was followed by a short drive to the Palace, now to be seen in the daylight (it is still pleasantly warm and sunny, in case you were worried). It is just as impressive in the daytime with large surrounding grounds with a bit of garden, lots of temples and a parade ground. I have to confess, that a rather exotic railway station does spring to mind at times, but it is certainly very regal.

The front of the Maharaja’s Palace, Mysore.

The main entrance to the Maharaja’s Palace, Mysore.

Side gate with gopura (tall thing on the right) or gateway to one of the 12 temples in the grounds of the Maharaja’s Palace, Mysore.

The Palace was designed in the Indo-Saracenic style by the British consultant architect of Madras State, Henry Irwin and completed in 1912 for the 24th Wadiyar raja on the site of the old wooden palace that had burnt down due to a stray firework at a wedding ceremony in 1897. There are various interesting things inside, including two enormous mounted elephant heads and a howdah decorated with 24 kg of 24-carat gold with a red and a green light on it that look like jewels, but were there so that the raja could tell the mahout when he wanted to go or stop. The overall decoration is eclectic with Belgian glass, Italian marble, Bohemian chandeliers and British floor tiles. A few photos…

Model of the original wooden Mysore palace , which burnt down in 1897

The golden howdah – you have to feel sorry for the elephant!

The octagonal Kalyana Mandapa or royal wedding hall. Cast iron pillars from Glasgow!

An elephant shot by the raja (I presume)

One of a great many friezes that depict the great 1930 Mysore Dussehra festival, an annual 10-day celebration of culture.

Courtyard where, amongst other things, the state wrestling championship finals are held.

As you go up the grand staircase you pass an unnervingly realistic life-size figure of the raja of the day and then enter the magnificent Public Durbar Hall with views across the parade ground at the front of the Palace. The raja would give audience here seated on a throne made from 280 kg of solid gold (not on sight!). I on the other hand was the subject of about 10 selfies with a group of young men assuming the most dramatic poses in the style of the latest Bollywood stars. I suggested 100 rupees a picture, but they weren’t feeling generous. A few more pics for you…

The Public Durbar Hall, Mysore Palace.

More of the Public Durbar Hall, Mysore Palace.

Krishnaraja Wadiyar IV (he’s only a model)

Fabulous door frame at the Mysore Palace.

The open side of the Public Durbar Hall of the Mysore Palace with the parade ground on the left.

Teak wooden door.

It was time to head off to our next stop, which was, you guessed it, another temple! This was at the top of Chamundi Hill dedicated to the chosen deity of the Mysore rajas, the goddess Chamundi or Durga. There were certainly a fair number of people there and some interesting sights!

And from the front…

Isn’t she lovely?

Not sure what he was selling, but he seemed very happy.

Always time for a group photo…..

Off to the temple…

Beautiful silver doors…

The gopura of the Chamundi Temple

I just liked the colours…

You had to be channeled to queue for the temple. It was a little bit how a cow must feel…..

Pilgrims’ Progress!

And finally, as promised, a large bull, our old friend, Nandi, Shiva’s bull. And there was a convenient sugar cane seller nearby for a restorative glass of sugar cane juice with ginger.

Nandi – carved from one piece of granite.

Time for some sugar cane juice mixed with ginger – very uplifting.

And that was Mysore, other than a walk down the main shopping street, photos of which I do not have as the battery died on the camera or, as it expressed it, ‘the battery is exhausted’! There are more clothes shops for men than women there I think, but Val did buy a really lovely cream and gold outfit, which is planned for Clara’s wedding. Of course we then needed shoes (luckily not handbag, hat and jewellery) and where do we end up but only the Mysore branch of Clarks!

Another great day and it is off to the hills tomorrow (as in 8th January).