Into the hills – Da Lat!

11th February, 2017

Well, it was time to depart Nha Trang for our penultimate destination, the hill station established by the French at the end of the 19th century at Da Lat. It is about 140 kms, but as we looked out of the window of our hotel that morning it didn’t look as though we would be travelling in blazing sunshine. Mind you it was a lovely light on the water!

We set off with Hanh our guide and our very able driver (Mr Chieu, I think), heading south and then hanging a right and started to climb and climb and climb. Da Lat is about 1,500 metres above sea level and the road we were on was not in good condition, having been subject to recent rockfalls and pitted with pot holes that often meant a detour onto the other side of the road with some interesting precipices on one side. It became even more exciting when the rain started and the clouds descended and visibility worsened. Mr Chieu took it nice and slow and after a stop for refreshments (Val was overdue her coconut!) we emerged into much better weather on the plateau of Da Lat. I declined the offer of a snake liquor pick-me-up! The bus we were in was very plush with reclining seats, cushions, drink holders and even a TV, though watching it going up that windy road would almost certainly have been a disaster. Val enjoyed the luxurious conditions though.

We had some lunch and as we were quite early it was suggested we do some of our tour straight away, which was fine by us. Da Lat today is no longer the sleepy respite centre for hot and bothered French colonial types that it was at the start of the 20th century, but has become the vegetable patch of Vietnam. Most growing is done under cover of plastic with every spare yard covered with the stuff for some very high intensity farming. It is also a major local tourist destination with lots coming up from Ho Chi Minh City and Nha Trang to savour the cold (well, cool) over their weekends. As a result it is plastered with decidedly kitsch entertainments some of which we were able to experience.

First up though we stepped back in time at Ga Da Lat as in Gare Da Lat, i.e. Da Lat Railway Station. It was a real Art Deco throwback having been built in 1938. The railway itself only extends 7 kms these days, the track having been a casualty of Vietcong attacks in the 1960s and subsequent ‘recycling’ of the rails by locals! The plan was to take the journey up the tracks, but no tickets were available, so we postponed that until tomorrow. A few photos to keep you going…

Next we visited the flower gardens next to the largish Lake Xuan Huong. As mentioned before, the Vietnamese have certainly mastered the art of the municipal garden and this was no exception. The biggest danger was being hit by a selfie stick as the locals absolutely looooove posing next to the flower beds (and trains and anything else you can think of) and this was nothing compared with our next destination (see below). Lovely flowers and gorgeous orchids plus a good smattering of bonsai. Also a small flavour of what was to come on the kitsch menu by way of Cinderella carriages and swan shaped pedallos (or should that be pedalli?), not to mention some impressive dragon topiary.

Ok, if that doesn’t convince you, let me whisk you off to the Vallee d’Amour or Valley of Love. The area had originally been a hunting spot for the last Emperor, Bao Dai and his courtiers in the 1950s before a dam project in 1972 flooded part of the valley and created a lake. It actually looked like a nice place to wander, though we did not have time for a lengthy hike. It was well worth a visit if only to get an insight into the Vietnamese of today, armed with their mobile phones and selfie sticks, wrapped up against the ‘cold’ enjoying the statues of what I think was meant to be Mickey Mouse and riding round the lake dressed as a cowboy amongst other entertainments. As it was nearly Valentine’s Day it was busier than ever and Val and I of course had to join in the fun. On another note but I am not sure what it is about me at the moment, possibly the hat or the beard or my staggering good looks, but I could start a small business from the number of times I have been asked to pose for photos either with or without local Vietnamese and this was no exception. I keep forgetting to get Val to record the event.

It was now time to head for our very nice hotel, the Ana Mandara Villas, built in a nice quiet, wooded area. The villas house about 4 rooms apiece and you walk over to separate buildings for restaurant etc. Very old world, but well thought out and, as ever, lovely staff.

We ate at the hotel as it is a bit of a walk to town and the meal was very nice. However what was most spectacular was the full moon that night, so stand by for a splurge of moon shots!

Ok, another post bites the dust. Catching up will probably have to wait until Bali, but you never know….

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