15th Jan, 2016

Next stop on our tour of Rajasthan was Bikaner. Now, if you thought we could not be impressed by anything more following our stay at Jaisalmer, then you are obviously unaware of the hotels you can get in this part of the world. This time we checked into the Laxmi Niwas Palace aka the Lallgarh Palace (still home to the local royal family). Honestly, you just have to smile and pinch yourself. Our bedroom was enormous with a sort of ante-chamber and a very long bathroom with about a 10 yard walk from the loo to the shower. The Maharaja, Ganga Singh, who built it in 1902 was a complete anglophile and represented the Indian princes at the signing of the Versailles treaty in 1919, having served on the Western Front. Sadly we could not get Room 108 which had been occupied by the likes of George V and Mountbatten, but we were still impressed. We didn’t have time for a game of snooker! If you are sensitive to dead animals hanging from walls, best not to look at all the photos – just remember it was another era. For the rest, enjoy!!

Bikaner itself is a little less impressive than some of our previous visits, but the local fort and royal palace is still worth a visit as you can see from the photos I hope. The plane in the Public Audience Chamber was a present from the British in gratitude for the Maharaja’s service during WW1. There was also a nice little museum with some fabulous textiles and clothes from the royal collection as well as some ‘everyday’ items – everyday if you are a maharaja, that is…..

16th Jan, 2016

I thought it would be good to get a feel for the town of Bikaner as the guide book seemed to indicate that the streets were of interest and that there were some havelis worth seeing so I persuaded Val to venture out with me into the bustling streets the next (rather chilly) morning. Initially this looked like a bit of a mistake and indeed, Monu seemed somewhat bemused by the whole idea, but agreed to drop off at the Kote Gate and to give us an hour to explore before we set off for the drive to Mandawa. Well, we started walking up the main street with all the usual noise and bustle and smells as the shopkeepers were opening up for business. It was interesting, though nothing exceptional and I think Val was having her doubts – quite rightly, as I was too! In desperation to find some charming alleys as in Jaisalmer, we hailed a tuktuk and headed for the only place mentioned on the map in the guidebook, which was a haveli now converted into the Rampuriya Haveli Hotel. The driver took us down some fairly rundown backstreets, avoiding positively herds of cows, dogs and people, through mud and round potholes and dropped us outside what I assume was the back of the hotel, which looked like the trades men’s entrance. Undaunted and effectively with no other choice we ventured in. What a gem! The gentleman on the front desk seemed more than happy for one of the staff to show us around virtually every room and it was worth it in spades. Have a look……..

A brief walk walk back to Kote Gtae and a possibly anxious Monu (to be honest, he is so cool and unruffled it is hard to tell) picked us up and off we went to Mandawa.